High Temperature Ceramic Spray Paint Silver Grey 650°C
This special paint, designed to withstand high temperatures, is intended exclusively for areas such as manifolds, exhausts, boilers, etc., that reach temperatures over 300°C.
We also produce paint that withstands up to 1800°C, but it is available only on request via WhatsApp at +393342272665.
SURFACE PREPARATION:
- The best option is to apply the product to bare, sanded, or sandblasted metal.
- If the metal is sanded, use soft body shop abrasive papers starting with grit 340/400, followed by 500, 600, and if possible, 800.
- Always handle components with latex gloves to prevent hand oils from causing oxidation on the metal later.
- For degreasing the metal before painting, use our aviation-grade degreaser.
PAINTING: The liquid and spray versions are the same; the only difference is that with the liquid version, you can paint more pieces because you control the spray gun.
- Shake the spray can or can and apply a light anchor coat.
- Wait 15 minutes and apply a second, heavier coat.
- Wait 15 minutes and apply the final coat, ensuring it’s neither too light nor too heavy.
- Wait until the piece is completely matte, then let it rest for 12 hours before curing.
CURING METHOD 1:
- The best way to cure and harden the paint for high resistance is using a dedicated oven. However, we understand that not everyone has one, so we will suggest an alternative method that is accurate and easy to execute.
- Gently handle the exhaust and, after placing it on a workbench without scratching it, begin heating the collector area with a heat gun at full power.
- Do not stay too long in one spot, as this may cause the paint to bubble and crack; the temperature increase should be gradual and progressive.
- After a few minutes, the paint will emit smoke, indicating that it’s curing well.
- Once the smoke stops, let the piece rest for 12 hours before using the bike.
CURING METHOD 2:
- After waiting 12 hours, gently mount the exhaust and start the vehicle, keeping it idling for a few minutes without accelerating. If you accelerate, the paint won't cure and will crack.
- Continuously monitor the exhaust. As soon as it starts to smoke, turn off the engine and let it cool for an hour.
- Restart the vehicle and repeat the process, this time allowing the exhaust to smoke a bit longer, then let it cool for another hour.
- Repeat this process one more time and let it rest overnight.
- The next day, use the bike.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
During the curing phase, the only part that emits smoke is the collector, as the rest of the exhaust doesn’t reach the necessary temperatures to release vapor.
Be careful about how long the paint is exposed to heat. If the exposure time during the initial curing phase is too long, the paint near the collectors may burn because it won’t have time to polymerize gradually. The engine idling creates heat at the mouth of the collector, which increases quickly, not allowing the paint to cure gradually. That’s why you need to turn the engine off and on continuously.
FINAL ANALYSIS:
Curing high-temperature paint is not an easy process, and the advice given here is only indicative. It may not work perfectly in every case. The process described is quite basic and not technically correct, as it cannot be consistently controlled with precise parameters. Therefore, we assume no responsibility for any potential issues that may arise during or after the treatment.
